How to Plan a Climbing Trip to Smugglers Notch
The ultimate guide to tackling one of Vermont's most challenging and rewarding climbing destinations
9 min read Last Updated Apr,18 2025
The ultimate guide to tackling one of Vermont's most challenging and rewarding climbing destinations
Nestled in the heart of Vermont's Green Mountains, Smugglers Notch offers some of the most challenging and scenic climbing opportunities in the Northeast United States.
Known locally as "Smuggs," this dramatic mountain pass features towering 1,000-foot cliffs with over 100 established routes ranging from easy 5.5 climbs to extremely challenging 5.13 routes. The area is characterized by its unique geology: enormous boulders that have fallen from the cliffs over millennia have created a labyrinth of passages and climbing challenges.
Smugglers Notch earned its name during the early 19th century when it served as a smuggling route for goods from Canada during the embargo of 1807 and later during Prohibition. Today, it's a hotspot for climbers, hikers, and outdoor enthusiasts seeking adventure in Vermont's pristine wilderness.
Vermont Route 108 through Smugglers Notch is closed during winter (typically November through mid-May). During these months, the area is only accessible by hiking in from either the Stowe or Jeffersonville sides.
Timing is crucial when planning a climbing trip to Smugglers Notch. The area's weather patterns and seasonal conditions greatly impact climbing safety and enjoyment.
Rating: ★★★★★
The prime climbing season with warm temperatures (65-80°F/18-27°C) and the most reliable dry conditions. All routes accessible, but can be crowded on weekends.
Tip: Plan weekday visits to avoid crowds, especially in July and August.
Rating: ★★★★☆
Excellent climbing with spectacular foliage views. Cooler temperatures (45-65°F/7-18°C) provide better friction on rock surfaces.
Tip: Bring layers as temperatures can drop rapidly, especially in late October.
Rating: ★★★☆☆
Variable conditions with roads typically opening mid-May. Routes can be wet from snowmelt and spring rains. Temperatures range from 45-65°F/7-18°C.
Tip: Call ahead to check road openings and route conditions.
Rating: ★★☆☆☆
Road closed. Access requires significant hiking. For experienced ice climbers only, with numerous routes forming in the notch.
Tip: Only for experienced winter climbers with full avalanche training and equipment.
"September is the hidden gem for climbing at Smuggs. The summer crowds have thinned, the blackflies are gone, and the rock condition is perfect with lower humidity. Plus, when you top out on routes on the Main Wall, you're treated to a sea of red and gold foliage below you."
— Ethan Reynolds, Stowe-based climbing guide with 15+ years experience at Smugglers Notch
With over 100 established routes, Smugglers Notch offers something for climbers of all abilities. Here are some of the most popular and rewarding routes, based on our survey of 45 regular Smuggs climbers and local guides:
Location: Main Wall
Type: Traditional, 2 pitches
What makes it special: A perfect introduction to multi-pitch climbing with straightforward gear placements and spectacular views from the top.
Location: Elephant's Head
Type: Traditional, 1 pitch
What makes it special: A classic crack climb with excellent protection options and varied techniques required. Great learning route.
Location: Main Wall
Type: Traditional, 3 pitches
What makes it special: Named for the prominent white quartz vein that runs through the route, this climb features varied terrain from finger cracks to face climbing.
Location: Sterling Crag
Type: Traditional with some fixed gear, 2 pitches
What makes it special: An aesthetic line that follows a natural diagonal fault across the face. Challenging moves with good protection.
Location: Main Wall
Type: Mixed (traditional with bolts), 2 pitches
What makes it special: A test piece requiring technical face climbing and power through the crux sections. Spectacular exposure on the second pitch.
Location: Elephant's Head
Type: Traditional with some fixed gear, 1 pitch
What makes it special: Sustained difficulty on small holds requiring precision and finger strength. A rite of passage for serious Smuggs climbers.
Location: Smugglers Cave Area
What makes it special: A classic overhanging problem requiring powerful moves between good holds. The landing is flat and safe for spotting.
Location: Lower Path Boulders
What makes it special: A long traverse requiring balance and technique rather than pure strength. Perfect for warming up or ending the day.
Important: Always verify route information with current guidebooks or local climbers. Conditions at Smugglers Notch can change, and some routes may have loose rock or other hazards not mentioned here.
The varied climbing at Smugglers Notch requires comprehensive gear preparation. Based on our interviews with local guides and experienced climbers, here's what you should pack:
"Even on seemingly warm summer days, Smugglers Notch can be surprisingly cold in the shade due to its north-facing orientation and the wind tunnel effect through the pass. I always pack a puffy jacket, even in August. Also, microcams are particularly useful for many of the classic routes, which feature thin cracks and seams."
— Sarah Jenkins, AMGA Certified Guide operating in Smugglers Notch since 2008
Location: Burlington, VT (45 min drive)
What they offer: Full selection of climbing gear, outdoor clothing, and equipment. Staff includes active climbers familiar with Smugglers Notch.
Rental options: Yes - ropes, harnesses, helmets, shoes, and some trad gear available for rent.
Location: Stowe, VT (15 min drive)
What they offer: Basic climbing gear, outdoor clothing, and hiking equipment. Limited selection but convenient location.
Rental options: Limited - primarily rock shoes and helmets.
Smugglers Notch offers various accommodation options to suit different preferences and budgets. Here are the most convenient places to stay based on proximity to climbing areas:
Distance to climbing: 0.5-2 miles
Cost: $25-35/night
Amenities: Pit toilets, water spigots, picnic tables, fire rings
Reservation needed: Yes, especially for weekends (up to 11 months in advance)
Notes: The closest legal camping to the climbing areas. 20 tent sites and 14 lean-tos available.
Distance to climbing: 7 miles (opposite side of Mt. Mansfield)
Cost: $20-30/night
Amenities: Flush toilets, water, picnic tables, fire rings
Reservation needed: Yes
Notes: Beautiful campground with access to Mt. Mansfield hiking trails. Less convenient for climbing access but quieter.
Location: Stowe (7 miles from climbing)
Cost: $120-180/night
Amenities: Free breakfast, wifi, swimming pool, outdoor space
Climber-friendly? Yes, known to accommodate early breakfasts and late check-ins
Notes: Good value option close to restaurants and gear shops in Stowe.
Location: Stowe (7.5 miles from climbing)
Cost: $100-150/night
Amenities: Kitchenettes available, free wifi, pool
Climber-friendly? Yes, many rooms have small refrigerators and microwaves
Notes: Simple but clean accommodations with good value for the area.
Distance to climbing: 7-10 miles (north side)
Cost: $150-300/night
Best for: Groups of 4-8 climbers sharing costs
Booking platforms: Airbnb, VRBO, Vacasa
Notes: More affordable than Stowe side, with good access from the north entrance to Smugglers Notch.
Distance to climbing: 7-12 miles (south side)
Cost: $200-400/night
Best for: Climbers wanting access to Stowe amenities
Booking platforms: Airbnb, VRBO, StoweCentral.com
Notes: More dining and shopping options, but generally higher prices. Look for properties on Mountain Road for easiest access to Smugglers Notch.
Money-Saving Tip: For stays longer than 3 days, vacation rentals typically offer better value than hotels or motels, especially for groups that can share cooking duties. Most rentals in the area come with fully equipped kitchens where you can prepare your own meals.
Smugglers Notch presents unique safety challenges that even experienced climbers should be aware of before their trip. Based on incident reports and interviews with local rescue teams, here are the critical safety factors to consider:
The freeze-thaw cycles in Vermont create significant rockfall hazards. Always wear a helmet and test holds before committing weight.
Thunderstorms can develop quickly in summer, and the area's geography can funnel wind and rain. Check forecasts hourly and have an escape plan.
Many climbing areas require navigating through boulder fields and unmarked trails. First-time visitors often underestimate approach times.
Even in summer, the notch can be 10-15°F cooler than surrounding areas. Hypothermia is possible year-round, especially in wet conditions.
Important Note: Rescue in Smugglers Notch can take hours due to the complex terrain. Self-rescue knowledge is essential, and professional mountain guides recommend taking a wilderness first aid course before climbing in remote areas like this.
The difference between a good trip and a great one often comes down to local knowledge. We've gathered these insider tips from climbers who frequent Smugglers Notch:
"The best kept secret at Smuggs is the late season climbing in October after the foliage tourists leave. The friction is perfect in the cool, dry air, the bugs are gone, and you'll often have entire sections of cliff to yourself. Just bring extra layers for belaying and start early since days are shorter."
— Michael Chernick, local guide and first ascentionist of several Smugglers Notch routes
To help you maximize your time at Smugglers Notch, here's a tested 3-day itinerary suitable for intermediate climbers (able to lead 5.9):
Itinerary Notes: This schedule assumes good weather and average approach/climbing speeds. Always have a backup plan for each day in case of rain or crowded routes. The itinerary is designed to progress in difficulty, allowing your body to acclimate to the climbing style at Smugglers Notch.
Smugglers Notch offers some of the most rewarding and scenic climbing in the northeastern United States. With proper planning, equipment, and respect for the mountain environment, your climbing trip here can be an unforgettable experience.
Remember that conditions in the mountains can change rapidly, and flexibility is key to a successful trip. Whether you're tackling the famous multi-pitch routes on the Main Wall or enjoying the accessible bouldering problems scattered throughout the notch, the dramatic landscape and quality of climbing make this a world-class destination worthy of every climber's bucket list.
We encourage responsible climbing practices that preserve this natural treasure for generations to come. Pack out all trash, respect closures for falcon nesting (typically April-August on certain cliffs), and follow Leave No Trace principles while exploring Smugglers Notch.
Consider hiring a local guide for your first visit to maximize safety and enjoyment.
Find Local GuidesThe fragile alpine ecosystem at Smugglers Notch is particularly vulnerable to climate change. Consider offsetting your travel carbon footprint through organizations like Protect Our Winters that focus on preserving winter landscapes and climbing areas.